Head Cast?

So, onto my point. What if I want to make my own cape and cowl? I realize I'd never get anything done before this halloween, but maybe next year. I've read over http://www.bioweapons.com at least 50 times, and feel I've got a decent handle on making body casts and molds, but I didn't find anything about making head molds. Is such a process possible (without killing myself or the subject in the process)? Maybe just hold my breath and stick my head in a bucket of alginate? (Yeah, right)

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TL
daa Productions

Nobody lives forever, so you might as well go out with a good caffeine buzz...

There's always hope, because it's the one thing that they haven't figured out how to kill yet...

Take a walk on the wild side. You CAN do it but it takes some skill to get it right. Needless to say it also takes a fair amount of the right supplies with which to do it. And if money isn't too big a deal you can buy those just about at any makeup effects supply place - there are many. But if you will go look at my web site on the TIPS & TECHNIQUES page under some heading about a "new lifecasting routine" (can't remember the heading), you will see and read detailed instructions how to do a full head life cast from about the shoulders up. Give it a look and if you need any other information just E-Mail me (use the link on the main index page near the bottom to drop me a line) and I will answer your questions or needs as best I can. It's an interesting process to say the least if you can get it right. But it DOES take some skill and patience and a bit of help to do it. I assume your wife would be doing it so she is the one who will have to learn how to do it on YOU. But she can easily learn it too.

Let me know if you need answers or help.

Good luck!!

Here's the web URL:
http://sapsema.com

Take care.

First of all the whole process takes about thirty minutes. The process with the application of the alginate takes the shortest amount of time though care has to be taken to avoid the nose area till last. Then spending a few minutes keeping the alginate from blocking the nasal passages is an issue but not insurmountable. You just have to keep working at it till the alginate sets - if you use 8 minute set alginate, that's just about how long that part takes. They do have the 6-7-8 minute alginate available from Accu-Cast (what I use all the time is 8 minute, I like the long working time). Then the application of the plaster bandages over the alginate (to keep it rigid since the alginate is flexible) takes a little while to do but once it's done they then have to set up till hard. That takes roughly about 15 minutes or so. Depends upon how fast you can work and if you have help. They have bandages that set up faster than others but I prefer taking the time if the patient can stand it. THAT is also an issue. Whoever you would do this to can't be claustrophobic. I keep talking to the subject to reassure them that all is well. And I have never had anyone who couldn't take it. It actually feels really good and is very relaxing. The subject MUST keep the expression neutral, as what the face looks like when cast in alginate is EXACTLY what you get when casting the positive in plaster.

But don't be put off by the nostrils issue. Just have to be careful covering the nose but not blocking the nostrils. Now if you have major allergies and have trouble breathing through the nose anyway, it might not work as well. Sometimes you can do the alginate with a slightly open mouth to aid in the breathing but it usually isn't done that way. Have to avoid getting it IN the mouth but covering the lips. Tough at best. It's not as bad as it looks.

The process on my web site shows a revival of an old technique that saves on alginate by using plaster bandages only on the back half of the head plus it "locks in" the alginate in the front so it stays put. A good idea renewewd by Alan Apone. It's a good way to do it and since you don't need anything but the shape of the back or top of the head, it surely saves on alginate. If you have any questions with regard to the process let me know and I'll do what I can to answer them and help you through this if you do it.

Now ACE on to your question with regard to the cape for the Batman costume. My suggestion would be to seek out someone - either a tailor or seamstress - who can do the custom sewing for you. I have as yet to see any that are sold commercially - costume houses or theatrical supply houses included - that are worth buying. So custom made, is the only way that I can tell you. Often if you will look for someone who might be involved in making costumes for your local dance schools, those people often have the required skills and won't cost you as much as a tailor or professional seamstress. Perhaps you can connect with the local community theater folk as well who are involved in making costumes. Also, you might try the closest college theater department and see if there is anyone there who is involved in creating theatrical costumes. Those folks are acedemicians and approach costumes and related things from a historic approach but since this character is so well defined, reference photos of what you want, given to them for reference, if you were to find someone to do it, would make the job easier for them and you'd end up with a quality cape that would work well and last a long time. Other than that, anyone who sews well can find the fabric that will perform as you need it to for that costume and can create a reasonable pattern and thus a reasonable facsimile of the actual cape that was made for the films. After all, someone who sews created the originals did they not? And you can find someone to do it, offering them a fair price for doing it. Beats buying those hokey capes that never look worth a darn.

Good luck to you guys. Any further questions just E-Mail me and I'll try to answer your needs as I can.

Take care.

I also forgot to answer your other question about how long it takes the plaster to set up and dry when you cast the positive. Actually you don't fill it up solid with plaster. You mix a fairly large batch of plaster and pour it in the negative mold (after plugging the nostril holes with clay or something). Then you pour the plster in, slosh it around to cover most of the interior of the negative and you continue to work it till it's about 1/2" to 3/4" thick all over leaving it a little thicker in the face area and the skull area. You just keep pulling the plaster up leaving it hollow inside. Then once the plaster has been used up and you have it fairly smooth on the bottom, you let it set up - roughly about an hour or so - till the plaster loses it's shine and is dry to the touch. Plus plaster goes through a chemical change, gets very hot and then cools down. Once it's cool to the touch, it's likely ok to remove the alginate. Then you remove the plaster bandages, the alginate (throw it all away) and then you're done. At this stage the positive cast might have little chunks or bubbles here and there and all you do is to CAREFULLY trim these away with a sharp plaster knife or something like that. Just basically you are "cleaning up" the cast so it's smooth. You might have to use a plaster rasp or something to smooth where the latex bald cap was. You just want to end up with a smooth casting without ruining too much of the textures of the impression of the skin. Then this positive casting might take a week or more to dry completely. I usually put it out in the sun the second or third day and the heat from the sun usually "bakes" it a bit and warms the whole cast up and it dries throughout. Takes a good long while - about a week or so - plus or minus. Varies.

There you go with some added thoughts. Good luck and take care.

You're partially right about the oven business. I was going to suggest that as an option. HOWEVER, as with any mold used for foam latex, over time, they will begin to get brittle and weak due in large part to the heat from baking repeatedly. So I chose NOT to offer that option simply because I felt it better to not bake it for ANY length of time to start with in the first place, thus shortening it's life right off the bat. It works well but why take however much life off the mold just to dry it out in the beginning. Plan ahead, I always say, and leave yourself enough time to let your molds air dry naturally without forcing it in the beginning by baking them out in an oven. Also, I use Ultracal 30 almost exclusively - and have for years - often mixed with Acryl 60 acrylic emulsion concrete hardener for added strength and thinner, yet strong molds. Baking it works but if you're using it for baking foam latex appliances repeatedly, then the life of the molds are going to be shortened anyway. Baking them out in the beginning isn't a bad way to go if you plan to use them for foam latex, gelatin appliances or slush latex use. But I don't use Ultracal or Hydrocal for anything else -well positive molds maybe. If I'm running silicone, I use Dental Stone or Epoxy faced molds and those needn't be baked anyway. But I DO agree that the baking routine works, but only if I'm in some kind of a major hurry. Otherwise, it's always going to be better to let them dry slowly over a period of days. But your idea is a good one for those who just can't wait.

Thanks for the added information and thoughts on the subject. Anyone who is new to this needs all the options they can get I'm sure.

Take care.

I use Ultracal for most work, Hydrocal well- dried for some latex slush-casting work (no future re-heating needed), and white plaster for waste molds, quick and dirty work, or faster latex slush-casting molds.

I use a gypsum fortifier made by Bondex because it is available locally through home improvement stores, and it works fairly well.

Have you ever used the red Ultracal? years ago I bought a 100 lb. bag of it and I found that the color would sometimes transfer to castings, giving them an undesirable redddish tint.